Conterno Fantino 2007 Dolcetto, $18.69-$21.99, 90 points, is a rather peculiar wine in that it reminds me of a frosty root-beer on a hot afternoon. "What are you talking about Dennis?" Well, you begin with something totally refreshing, but in a couple of hours the root-beer is totally flat. Now I'm not saying that this wine is totally flat after opening, but I am saying that the moment I opened this Dolcetto it was big and lively and had impact; there was good acidity and striking tannin, most of which diminished within a few hours. The aroma began with the power of Lilac, cedar, and spice, but diminished into a rather earthy boredom.
The color did not fade though (I would need a straight-jacket), and its almost Shiraz-purplish color is clear and deep.
The freshly uncorked bottle had a good mouth-feel with a medium body full of juicy blackberries, floral earth, and mushroom. The finish was fair and ended with some long lasting menthol.
The verdict: this is an open and shut case for a great wine not left around opened.
I just wanted to take-back some of the "not left around opened" comment: Last night (May 22) I poured some of this left-over Dolcetto and I was surprised by just how good it still was, and the finish had gained some hither-to unnoticed espresso and spice. Still not the robust wine when first I opened it!
Live-taste and learn! I'm encouraged by this varietal, especially the QPR.
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